Aroumd to Fez - our final chance to shop
After Mt Toubcal it was a gentle 4 hrs walk down the valley to our waiting transport. We had a final picnic lunch by the river at Aroumd, where the road ends, and then everything was packed onto two 4WD 's. We did the customary thanking of the muleteers and cook, distributed the tips (also customary) and took off by internal combustion engine to Marrakesh.
The next day we left by train to Fez. We had been told that Fez was smaller, more ancient and more authentic for arts and crafts. The market was a maze of interlocking alleyways that you could not navigate without a guide. Mohamed organised his friend Rasheed to spend the day with us showing us around Fez and especially the Souk (market).
The 8hr train trip was made more interesting with some lively debate about gay adoption with a honeymooning couple from Romania. They were both lawyers and he also had a degree in orthodox theology. After an hour or more we all amicably agreed that it was best to change the subject.
In Fez we stayed in a Riad, which is a large house/appartment on several levels surrounding a small central courtyard. They are finished with tiles, may mosaics and ofter a small fountain. The result is a cool haven from the summer sun.
Our guide in Fez, Rasheed, was a dapper 50 something who knew every inch and (seemingly) every peron in Fez. He wore a fashionable sports coat and was greeted by storeholders throughout the day. he walked us with confidence through the winding alleyways and gave background info, in faultless English, whenever asked. Fez was more than a market as most things were also made in the city or nearby. We bought a pouffe after visiting the tannery.
For lunch he took us down a narrow dark alley and through a door with no markings into a sumptuous restaurant. Readers of our blogs will not be surprised that we were the only customers, though by the time we finished the restaurant was crowded.
We ordered a Morrocan Salad and Chicken. The waiter in the picture is explaining the different plates that made up the Morrocan Salad. Mint tea was served by an exceptionally tall man in customary dress. He made a display of pouring from about a metre above the cup. When we asked for a photo however he became most annoyed and stomped off muttering no photos. We thought we had been culturally inappropriate somehow and so when we left we asked Rasheed. To our surprise he already knew about the customers request however once he knew it was us he asked us to wait whilst he organised something. He returned to say we needed to return as his friend, the drinks waiter, was ready for some photos. We had been the unwitting pawns in a row he was having with his boss over his pay.
Rasheed cost us a lot of money that day as we couldn't resist the locally made, smoothly sold, exceptionally priced, exquisite art that he had a knack of directing us towards. We thoroughly enjoyed the day and it was a fitting final day to our travels.
See you at home soon or around the world later
Clare and Ross
| Mohamed, Ahmed (cook) and the muleteers with Jean,Carol, Clare and I at the final lunch |
The 8hr train trip was made more interesting with some lively debate about gay adoption with a honeymooning couple from Romania. They were both lawyers and he also had a degree in orthodox theology. After an hour or more we all amicably agreed that it was best to change the subject.
In Fez we stayed in a Riad, which is a large house/appartment on several levels surrounding a small central courtyard. They are finished with tiles, may mosaics and ofter a small fountain. The result is a cool haven from the summer sun.
Our guide in Fez, Rasheed, was a dapper 50 something who knew every inch and (seemingly) every peron in Fez. He wore a fashionable sports coat and was greeted by storeholders throughout the day. he walked us with confidence through the winding alleyways and gave background info, in faultless English, whenever asked. Fez was more than a market as most things were also made in the city or nearby. We bought a pouffe after visiting the tannery.
For lunch he took us down a narrow dark alley and through a door with no markings into a sumptuous restaurant. Readers of our blogs will not be surprised that we were the only customers, though by the time we finished the restaurant was crowded.
We ordered a Morrocan Salad and Chicken. The waiter in the picture is explaining the different plates that made up the Morrocan Salad. Mint tea was served by an exceptionally tall man in customary dress. He made a display of pouring from about a metre above the cup. When we asked for a photo however he became most annoyed and stomped off muttering no photos. We thought we had been culturally inappropriate somehow and so when we left we asked Rasheed. To our surprise he already knew about the customers request however once he knew it was us he asked us to wait whilst he organised something. He returned to say we needed to return as his friend, the drinks waiter, was ready for some photos. We had been the unwitting pawns in a row he was having with his boss over his pay.
Rasheed cost us a lot of money that day as we couldn't resist the locally made, smoothly sold, exceptionally priced, exquisite art that he had a knack of directing us towards. We thoroughly enjoyed the day and it was a fitting final day to our travels.
See you at home soon or around the world later
Clare and Ross





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